Rupert Sanderson
Within seconds of striking up a conversation with Rupert Sanderson it’s plain to see that running the international label that bears his name allows him to indulge all of his passions, not just designing women’s shoes.
Sanderson, who boasts eponymous shoe boutiques in Paris, London and Hong Kong and owns an Italian factory in the country’s top shoemaking region, clearly has an eye for fine craftsmanship and loves products with provenance – whatever that product may be.
When I caught up with him recently near his north London home, he talked of his love of discovering interesting places and uncovering noteworthy pieces. Even better when you can combine the two, such as the time he was on a motorbike trip through Ireland’s Waterford and Wexford and stumbled upon vintage Ray-Ban sunglasses featuring original Waterford glass lenses.
Most recently, Sanderson visited Barcelona. Evidently, his visit to the Catalan capital was work and pleasure combined. “I went to see traditional factories to look at a shoe that is indigenous to Spain,” he explains, adding that he “loves Barcelona”. A fan of architecture, design, food as well as fashion, in fact any craft that requires taste, knowledge and expertise, he reels off a long list of what makes Barcelona and the surrounding region so appealing – Michelin starred restaurants; Gaudi architecture; great artists associated with Catalonia like Dalí, not to mention Boadas, a bar that dates back to 1933, which he recently described as “the world’s best cocktail bar” in his Vogue blog. And, of course, the fact that Barcelona sits oceanside, lapped by the sea.
Italy is also close to the designer’s heart. Here, he got his first taste of shoemaking working at Bruno Magli and Sergio Rossi. Later met his future wife in an Italian language class. As well as spending time designing and crafting shoes in his factory near Bologna, Sanderson also frequently hops across to Paris on the Eurostar, especially since he opened an eponymous boutique there last spring. With a character all of its own and “a clear view right from the Rue des Petits Champs right across to the nearby Palais Royale,” Sanderson says in Paris independent boutiques such as his “thrive”, patronised by the archetypal Parisian woman who loves a “find”.
The designer’s next stop is much closer to home – Bicester Village, where he opens a boutique in September. “I’m looking forward to rubbing shoulders with the finest luxury brands in the world and getting in front of a very knowledgeable fashion customer,” he says.
When Sanderson launched his label in 2001, he quickly made a name for himself with sophisticated flat pumps, high-heeled boots and elegant shoes and sandals, which attracted a slew of A-list devotees including Gwyneth Paltrow, Lily Allen, Frieda Pinto and Kate Moss. As the business has evolved so has the collection, including edgier show-stopping styles as well as more casual shoes. This coming season there’s stunning platform ankle boots, tasselled loafers, not to mention Saddled Os, his two-tone take on the American saddle shoe. Sanderson predicts that there’s more mileage in the popular platform. “Some might be championing the single soled shoe, but platforms are very much alive,” he says.
Platforms might not be a practical choice for travel, so rather than recommending one particular style, the designer suggests using the dust bags the shoes come with: “They can also double up and protect holiday trinkets.” Now isn’t that resourceful?
10-10-2011
